Classic looks, modern performance, and everything in between.

When you’re building a restomod, few choices transform the look and personality of your ride more dramatically than the wheels. The right wheel setup can bridge decades of design, give a vintage muscle car a modern performance stance, or preserve period-correct style with updated construction and materials. This guide breaks down the different types of wheels, construction methods, iconic styles, and sizing considerations to help you choose the perfect setup for your build.

Why Wheels Matter in a Restomod

Restomods blend old-school aesthetics with modern drivability. The right wheel set complements that balance by providing:

• Improved strength and performance

• Better brake clearance for big-brake kits

• A stance that matches your build’s personality

• A visual identity that ties the whole car together

Whether you’re restoring a ’67 Camaro, a ’69 Charger, or a ’70 Chevelle, your wheel choice is a core piece of the build’s DNA.

Wheel Construction Types: Strength, Weight & Performance

1-Piece Cast Wheels

Best for: Budget-minded builds, vintage adopters
Cast wheels are formed by pouring molten aluminum into a mold. They’re affordable, widely available, and perfect for classic-inspired builds. While heavier and not as strong as forged options, they’re perfectly suitable for cruising, shows, and moderate performance.

Flow-Formed Wheels

Best for: Enthusiasts who want lighter wheels without the forged price
Flow forming creates a stronger barrel through high-pressure spinning, reducing weight while boosting durability. These wheels offer excellent value and are common on pro-touring and daily-driven restomods.

2-Piece Wheels

Best for: Deep-dish looks, custom offsets, high-end builds
Two-piece wheels combine a separate center and barrel, either welded or bolted together. They allow:

• Custom lip depths

• Precise offset options

• Multiple finish combinations

They provide the classic multi-piece aesthetic without the complexity of 3-piece modular wheels.

3-Piece Wheels

Best for: Maximum customization, show builds, widebody restomods
Three-piece wheels consist of a center, an inner barrel, and an outer lip — all bolted together. These wheels are highly prized for their modular design and premium appearance.

Why restomod builders love them:

• Unlimited customization in lip depth, offset, hardware, and finishes

• Easier repairs — damaged barrels or lips can be replaced individually

• Deep-dish capability unmatched by 1- or 2-piece wheels

• Modern performance with a classic multi-piece look

They’re especially popular on high-dollar pro-touring cars and widebody muscle builds where stance is everything.

Fully Forged Monoblock Wheels

Best for: High-performance, track-capable restomods
Forged wheels are machined from a solid billet of aluminum under massive pressure. This gives them the best strength-to-weight ratio of any wheel construction.

Perfect for builds with:

• LS/LT or Gen III Hemi swaps

• Big-brake kits

• Modern suspension

• Aggressive cornering or track use

Classic Wheel Styles: Timeless Icons for Vintage Builds

Restomod enthusiasts often gravitate toward wheels that maintain the soul of the original car — even when everything else under the skin is new. Here are the styles that define the golden era of American muscle and hot-rodding:

Cragar S/S

The quintessential ’60s and ’70s muscle wheel. Chrome, five-spoke, deep dish — perfect for Gassers, Novas, Malibus, and early Mustangs.

 

Rally Wheels

GM Rallys, Mopar Rallyes, Ford Styled Steel — all evoke factory-correct vibes but can be upsized to 17–20" for restomod fitment.

 

Torq-Thrusts (American Racing)

A restomod staple. The Torq-Thrust II and VN-series have the perfect blend of vintage muscle aesthetics and modern machining.

 

Slot Mags

An iconic look for ’70s muscle and vans. With modern machining, slot mags can be lighter, stronger, and more precisely sized.

 

Keystone Klassics

Instant old-school attitude. These multi-spoke chrome wheels pair perfectly with bold paint and era-correct vibes.

 

Daisy Spokes (Western/ET)

A ’60s drag and street-machine classic. They look killer on tri-fives, early Mustangs, and Darts.

 

Smoothies

A clean hot-rod style wheel, often paired with whitewalls. Perfect for trucks, lead sleds, and retro-inspired builds.

 

Halibrand-Style Wheels

Split-spoke kidney bean designs worn by everything from Shelby Cobras to vintage race cars. These wheels blend heritage with purposeful aggression.

 

Modern Performance Wheel Styles for Restomods

If your build leans more pro-touring, autocross, or modern muscle, contemporary designs offer better precision, machining, and fitment options.

 

American Racing Modern Lineup

Beyond Torq-Thrusts, AR offers clean, motorsport-inspired forged and flow-formed wheels with excellent brake clearance and lightweight performance. Shown above is American Racing's very popular "Groove" wheel that was featured on the RM25 1968 Dodge Charger and RM30 1970 Dodge Charger.

 

US Mags

Known for classic-inspired designs in modern sizes. They’re favorites for restomods wanting vintage flair in 18–20" big-brake-friendly diameters.

 

Budnik Wheels

A high-end option known for fully forged construction and custom machining. Budnik blends classic cues with modern materials — ideal for six-figure restomods.

 

Forgeline, HRE, and Others

These brands specialize in advanced forged wheels with extreme strength-to-weight ratios. They’re premium choices for high-performance restomods with modern suspension technology.

 

Wheel Width, Diameter & Offset: How to Choose the Right Fit

Choosing the right wheel dimensions isn’t just about looks — it affects handling, tire options, and performance.

Diameter: 15–20"+

• 15–16" — Best for classic look, drag setups, and tall-sidewall comfort

• 17" — The “sweet spot” for restomods: fits bigger brakes while keeping the vintage look

• 18–20" — Aggressive stance, modern performance, wider tire options

Width: 7" to 12"+

• 7–8" — Stock-style, cruiser setup

• 9–10" — Most common for restomods, fits modern performance tires

• 10–12"+ — Widebody or mini-tub builds, maximum grip

Wider wheels mean a larger contact patch and better traction, but require careful tuning of offset and backspacing.

Backspacing & Offset

These determine how the wheel sits relative to the suspension and fenders:

• Positive offset pushes wheels inward — common on modern cars

• Negative offset pushes wheels outward — the deep-dish muscle look

• Backspacing controls brake/suspension clearance

For most classic muscle cars, hitting the perfect stance means balancing deep lip aesthetics with brake clearance and suspension geometry.

 

What Different Enthusiasts Prefer

The Purist

Wants period-correct wheels — Rallys, Torq-Thrusts, Cragars — in modest sizes (15–17").

The Pro-Touring Builder

Leans toward forged or flow-formed wheels, 18–20" diameters, and brands like Forgeline or Budnik.

The Street Machine Enthusiast

Prefers bold designs like slot mags, Keystones, or polished 2-piece wheels with deep lips.

The Modern Muscle Influenced Builder

Goes for aggressive split-spoke or performance-oriented designs from AR, US Mags, or HRE.

The Show Car Builder

Wants unique finishes, custom offsets, massive lips, or brushed/clear anodized forged pieces.

 

Final Thoughts

Wheels can completely define the look, stance, and personality of your restomod build. Whether you want a timeless ‘60s aesthetic, a modern pro-touring posture, or a blended hybrid style, today’s wheel market offers endless options through classic and contemporary brands.

By understanding construction methods, classic design language, and fitment strategy — you’ll be better equipped to choose wheels that not only look incredible, but transform the driving experience of your build.

Oh and by the way, if you like showing off your favorite wheels not just on your car but on your body, get yourself the Classic Wheels Tee and you'll claim entries to win a restored and modified classic muscle car!